Gilan, on the Caspian coast, loves its food sour. Ghooreh mosamma shows why. Chicken and fried aubergines are cooked down with ghooreh, the small unripe grapes that Iranians use the way other cooks use lemon.
A little sugar balances the sourness. Exactly how much is a matter of family argument.
At a glance: serves four. About an hour and a half. Medium.
Ingredients
- 1kg chicken thighs or drumsticks, skin removed
- 4 long aubergines, peeled
- 1 large onion, sliced
- 3 cloves garlic, crushed
- 1 cup ghooreh (unripe grapes), fresh or frozen
- 1 tbsp tomato paste (optional)
- 1 tsp turmeric
- 1 to 2 tbsp sugar, to taste
- Vegetable oil, salt and black pepper
Method
- Cut the aubergines into thick pieces, salt them and leave for 30 minutes. Pat dry and fry until golden. Set aside.
- Fry the onion and garlic until soft, add the turmeric and brown the chicken.
- Add the tomato paste if using, then a cup and a half of hot water. Season, cover and simmer for 30 minutes.
- Add the fried aubergines and the ghooreh. Cook gently for another 30 minutes, until the grapes burst and the sauce thickens.
- Stir in the sugar a little at a time until the balance of sweet and sour suits you.
Mash a few aubergines. Some Gilani cooks press a few pieces into the sauce to thicken it. Others keep them whole. Both are correct.
No ghooreh? Use verjuice and lemon juice, about four tablespoons in total, added in the last 15 minutes.
Serve with plain rice, Gilani style, with garlic pickles (seer torshi) on the side. Ghooreh season in Iran runs through early summer, which is when this stew is at its best.
