Haleem with Bulgur: A Quicker Iranian Winter Breakfast

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Haleem is the great Iranian winter breakfast. Wheat and meat cook down together into a smooth, slightly stretchy porridge, topped with cinnamon and melted butter. In Tehran it is sold from steaming pots on cold mornings, and in Ramadan it is a favourite before dawn and at iftar.

The traditional version takes most of a night, because whole wheat needs hours to break down. Coarse bulgur, which is wheat already cracked and part-cooked, cuts that to an afternoon. The texture stays soft and smooth.

Serves 6 to 8. Time about 3 hours, plus soaking.

Ingredients

• 2 cups coarse bulgur wheat (about 400g)
• 500g lamb or veal, preferably neck or shank
• 2 medium onions, finely chopped
• 8 to 10 cups water
• 3 to 4 tbsp oil or butter
• Salt
• ½ tsp black pepper
• 1 tsp ground cinnamon, plus extra to serve
• 1 to 2 tbsp sugar (optional)
• Raisins, walnuts and melted butter, to serve

Method

1. Rinse the bulgur several times, then cover it with warm water and soak for at least 4 to 6 hours, or overnight. Drain.
2. Fry the onions in a little oil until soft and lightly golden. Add the meat and fry for a few minutes until it changes colour. Add water to cover, with salt and pepper. Cover and simmer gently for 1 to 2 hours, until the meat is completely tender.
3. Lift out the meat and strain the broth. Shred the meat with two forks, or pound it smooth. A food processor gives the finest texture.
4. Put the bulgur in a heavy pot with the strained broth, adding water to cover it well. Bring to the boil, then lower the heat. Cook for 30 to 60 minutes, stirring every few minutes, until the grains crush easily against the side of the pot. If it gets too thick, add hot water. Cold water stops the grains softening.
5. Add the meat in a few batches, stirring it in well. Season with salt, pepper and cinnamon, and add the sugar if you like.
6. Over a very low heat, beat the haleem hard with a wooden masher or spoon until it turns smooth and a little stretchy. You can blitz some of it in a food processor and stir it back in, but only for a few pulses. Too long and it turns gluey.
7. Check the consistency. Loosen it with hot water or warm milk, or cook it uncovered for a few minutes to thicken. It firms up as it cools, so stop when it is slightly looser than you want. Stir in the oil or butter.

To serve. Spoon into bowls and top with cinnamon, a drizzle of melted butter, raisins and walnuts. Many Iranians add sugar at the table. Eat it with fresh sangak or barbari bread and sweet tea.

Stir and keep the heat low. Haleem catches on the bottom of the pot very easily. A heavy pot and regular stirring stop it burning.

Shop the ingredients. Everything for this haleem, ready to order.

Adapted from a recipe published by Delgarm.

Bulgur cuts the cooking time for haleem from a whole night to about three hours.