Gol-e Rezaieh Café in Tehran

One of the most historic cafes still operational today in central Tehran is the Gol-e Rezaieh Café on 30 Tir Street.

Originally opened by an Armenian chap called Gargen Avansian in 1932 (1310 in Persian calendar), the centrally located eatery was eventually taken over by the Kashaman family who run it to this day. Currently Gol-e Rezaieh café is run by Shervin Kashaman, the third generation of the same family!

As you can imagine, the design of the café has changed with the times, and now it has references to 20th century pop culture, with a deep red light giving the place an air of deep history and feeling. The walls are plastered with famous Western singers and actors, including Freddie Mercury, Charlie Chaplin among the many famous faces.

The café is still a favourite of students, writers, journalists, musicians and artists, and a great place to enjoy a breakfast or lunch of traditional stews (khoresht). The café also offers several vegetarian and vegan options, which is a growing trend among the denizens of Tehran.

The reserved table in the corner is for the guests that never come. It’s a reference to the historic status of the café and its historical patronage including the likes of Forough Farrokhzad and Sadegh Hedayat, two monoliths of early twentieth century Iran.

Where is the cafe?

You can find the classic cafe here.

Further down 30 Tir Street

Obviously, many of you who are already in Tehran will know that 30 Tir Street has become increasingly popular in recent years as a pedestrianised outside eating space. At the southern end of the street you’ll find many other eateries including tacos and burgers as well as other fast food.

How much does it cost?

Food prices down this end of town are incredibly affordable, and the food is probably more filling than anything you’d find north of Parkway Junction.

Further up from the food vans you’ll find several well-established eateries, with names such as Bamahas Sandwich, Reza Loghmeh, Gol Rezaeieh and Baba Mirza offering some Tehroon classics.

If you’re into your foreign foods then a walk further north on 30 Tir you can find a few Armenian stores selling all sorts of foreign food brands you would struggle to find elsewhere in Tehran…